Thursday 7 June 2012

Isles of Scilly! Day 2: Tresco

So after a not particularly comfortable nights sleep, we woke at about three, four, five, six and seven to a flappy windy tent and faintly damp clothes. After wasting time with croissants from the campsite shop for breakfast it was time for a phone call. Bad news, our adventure planned for today would have to wait until tomorrow, the weather was simply too rough. So with a brief change of plans we decided that we'd take it easy, get a boat over to Tresco (10) and see what we could see. 

Arriving at the Carn Near slipway as the tides were too low for the quay at New Grimsby, we found ourselves at one end of a beach which seemed to disappear around the low lying headland to the east, the weather wasn't perfect, breezy and drizzling, but it seemed as good a way to go as any. 

Liam on the beach on Tresco
On the seaward side of the beach were many rocky outcrops, but having consulted the map it was clear that only one of them had proper land and vegetation and could therefore rightly be called an island. On the far south eastern corner of Tresco we clambered over the rocks and made an ascent of Green Island (11).

Green Island, Tresco. Various rocks in the background, with the south hill of Samson on the right

We then carried on around the beach into the calmer waters between Tresco and St Martins, something of an island playground, with sizeable islands literally scattered around the northern end.


From the beach on Tresco
 After a while we rounded another bay and the village of Old Grimsby came into sight, though in reality and from close up it is neither old, nor a village. It seems predominated by a large holiday timeshare complex, and very nice too, if you like that sort of thing. Heated pool, large apartments, sun loungers overlooking the beach, but not quite rugged enough for somewhere so remote. Beyond the complex and through a gate the path took us somewhere quite the opposite.


""Old" Old Grimsby". Most of the new apartments were further to the right
The northern part of Tresco felt more like I'd expected of an island renowned as a pirate stronghold and a scene of one of the final battles of the English Civil War. Indeed after following a soft path over peaty turf between impressive rock formations along cliffs over a raging Atlantic below, we came into the sound between Tresco and Bryher and to Cromwell's Castle.


Rocks on Northern Tresco
The castle was impressive to look at, though apparently rubbish, as all the gun-shooting holes (technical term) face the sea, and it was easily attacked from the land, but that didn't stop us going up onto the tower and having a good old poke around.
Cromwell's Castle, Tresco


The path then continued to New Grimsby, somewhat more authentic looking than its predecessor, and the location for Tresco's pub, and our third of the trip (another stat to go for?), the New Inn. Swift pint of rattler, then on down one of the island's few roads, past more timeshare places and great pool, the biggest lake in Scilly, and to the Abbey Gardens. 

Didn't go in, it was twelve quid each and we only had an hour til the boat, so instead bought the smallest item of food (a potato salad in case you're interested) from the vastly overpriced cafe (£4.95 for a packet prawn sandwich...) and occupied my time taking pictures of the incredibly tame birds that fly around nicking your food. 
Some interesting plants outside the gardens, a freebie if you will

Little bird on a chair. Tried to learn what type, they all look the same


Tresco Abbey from the road
And after all that excitement it was time for the boat back from New Grimsby to Hugh Town, and as it wasn't too late and we hadn't exhausted ourselves too much, we headed down to the Bishop and Wolf in down-town Hugh Town and the promise of live music. 

Something Celtic perhaps, some sea shanties, not even close. A couple of guys with two guitars and a backing track, with a passable if pedestrian Sultans of Swing and what I presume was the Rolling Stones. Still, they had the room rockin'. Stayed for one, then across to the Atlantic Hotel to complete our trio of Hugh Town hostelries. Back to the campsite for sleep and then definitely an exciting day tomorrow. Only two islands on day two, we'd need to up the ante!

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