Orkney! Day 2: Rousay to Hoy!

We awoke on Day Two to blue skies, refreshed from the journey north (mentally if not physically), and although I knew Sam and I would be keen to get back outside to explore Rousay some more, I wasn't sure how the new recruits were holding up. After all, yesterday's "leisurely stroll" to the broch and cairn had left our legs and feet in shambles and was now affectionately dubbed “The Hell March.” Resilience shone through, however, and the consensus somehow came to be that we would scale the tallest peak on all of Rousay, Blotchnie Fiold, a staggering 249ft, via a nature walk around the Trumland House estate.

The well appointed kitchen at the hostel on Rousay

The view from the front door

 Spirits remained high for at least half an hour before doubt and fatigue set in, once again we had set off without drinks and snacks, our limbs sore and time scant. Rob remained optimistic, the champ, but the rest of us voted bail. So, we continued along the colourful nature trail around Trumland House, evading the occasional bee, grabbed our bags from the hostel and headed back to the Pier Bar to requisition appropriate bagging victuals – pies and Irn Bru. 

The path through the nature reserve

Looking out over Wyre with Shapinsay beyond

Trumland House

 On our way, incidentally, we ran into the postman who we had met on the ferry previously, and he assured us we would still be able to hop on and off the ferry at Egilsay and at Wyre to take a photo. This was some relief to me, as a ferry timetabling quirk had interfered with my perfect itinerary, which had originally included an hour or two on each island. The gang seemed content with the new arrangement, Irn Bru was drunk, pies were ordered, balls were sunk, while we waited for the ferry. Quick stops at Egilsay (3), then Wyre (4), photos, back to Rousay briefly then returned to Tingwall.

Leaving Rousay

Wyre (Brief Stop)

Egilsay (Brief Stop!)

Pies on the quay

 Whilst on the mainland, we had a go at being tourists and stopped by the Maes Howe Chambered Cairn. The friendly assistant behind the desk was incredibly helpful, redirecting us with a hand drawn map to the nearby Cuween Chambered Cairn, which was both free and accessible at all times, and therefore suited our schedule better. Off we went to hunt down another spooky cairn. It was becoming a thing! Cuween’s shape was different to those we had seen on Rousay, access was through a low, narrow tunnel opening into a chamber, with smaller chambers huddled around the sides, and all shrouded in darkness save for the dim glow of an island-issued torch – until the gang whipped their phones out. Didn’t make it any less creepy though.

Liam in the burial chamber

 That night’s accommodation was booked at the Rackwick Hostel on Hoy (5), so after checking out around Cuween it was time to drive on down to Houton and catch the evening ferry to Lyness, Hoy. This crossing was so uneventful Terri didn’t realise we had left until we were well over half way, testament either to the Flow’s calmness or Candy Crush’s enchanting nature. Leaving the ferry port, we decided to head towards South Walls (6?), and so began The Great Question. Is South Walls a distinct island that we could count?

A-Hoy!

 Leaving that hanging, we crossed the causeway, hit the pub, was told South Walls wasn't a separate island, then went for a walk along the coast. We were greeted with amazing views of the Scottish mainland, the Southern Isles, Stroma and Swona, and even lucky enough to spot some finned marine creatures and a seal or two.

First game of Orkney pool

Here we saw seals and possibly sharks (not in the picture though)

Taken on South Walls (for evidence in case it turned out it was an island)

 More breath-taking scenery awaited us on our journey to the hostel as the road took us through Rackwick Valley, with dramatic hills rising steeply on either side, past the Dwarfie Stane, and finally giving way to the wide bay in which Rackwick itself is situated. Despite a brief misunderstanding about our booking, we still had time to have Bangers and Mash for tea. Pro Baggin’! 

(By Liam)